What four months can do with you

Four and a half months since I left El Salvador. Two and a half months until I go there again. November rain in Sweden is suddenly so much easier to cope with.

These four months back in Sweden have been some of the most important months of my life. The organization Schools for the Future was founded. The project Reading for the Future developed from being just an idea in my head to becoming a real plan. This is actually going to happen! It is happening right now. The support we have gained so far keep strengthening our conviction that we are special. That this is important and that our dedication means everything. Dedication creates trust, which is both scary and fruitful at the same time. Scary because our promises means so much to so many, fruitful because people's trust in us forces us to constantly reach beyond limits and exceed these promises.

And during the next four months, what will happen? In mid March my next stay in El Salvador is coming to an end. The preparatory stages of the project have been successfully executed and we are ready to initiate the next phase which will take off for real in August 2009. I have also had the honour to serve as observer during the presidential elections in El Salvador. So, if the past four months have been some of the most important of my life, the next four will become even more important.

Please, visit our homepage: http://www.schoolsforthefuture.org/.

Bookless land

As a Swede, you normally develop a close relationship to literature. As a child, your parents read to you every night before you fall asleep and the nursery school teachers constantly encourage you to browse books, point out different animals and spell out the words loud. One can say that Swedish children learn to speak partly through reading books. In El Salvador, this is not the case.

In Sweden, the reading habit is further enhanced in elementary, middle and high school, where literature is a mandatory part of the education. Children and young persons read a certain amount of books, learn to analyze and criticize them. Some read more in their free time than others, but everyone reads. All Swedish families I know, regardless of social class or educational level, have a collection of at least a hundred books, the great majority much more. You never see a home without a bookshelf. Again, some read more than others, and the kind of literature also varies a lot between individuals and social groups, but you see people reading everywhere. At the bus stop. On the bus. In waiting halls. In cafés. In the park. When a Swede is waiting or travelling, reading is a popular activity. But we also create space in our busy schedules just for the purpose of reading, like going to bed an hour earlier to read before falling asleep, or turning off the cell phone a couple of hours on a Sunday to relax in the bathtub with a good book.

In El Salvador, on the other hand, you never see people reading books. And I mean NEVER. People read what they have to read in school and they read newspapers, but I have honestly never seen a Salvadoran reading a novel (except my friend Enriqueta, but she is really a special case). Parents don't read to their children and litarature is not taught in school, so the people don't get used to reading books, and so the vicious circle is closed.

What does this "booklessness" imply? In my D thesis in Sociology, it was shown that regardless of other factors such as the educational level of the parents, gender and economical situation, the number of books in the home was the most important factor influencing the achievement in both mathematics and language among 9th grade students in El Salvador. Why is this? First of all, reading books implies developing and training of concentration capabilities important in all kinds of subjects in school. It also developes analytical skills, abstract thinking and creativity. I also believe that reading books can prevent a lot of aggression and violence, since it encourages identification with other people and to learn to understand different perspectives. Reading also teaches you things about the society and the world around you, through literature you experience social and cultural exchange. It's a treasure to which you can escpape a couple of hours to relax and to reflect. Reading books encourages many children to write stories themselves, and to learn how to express and handle their feelings with words instead of keeping them hidden through out their lives.

For most Swedes, reading books is a natural part of life and we don't reflect on all the benefits it implies for our living quality and for our society as a whole. Maybe some of you consider my praise to literature as a bit exaggerated? Maybe you're right. But I honestly don't think so. After spending more then a month here I'm even more convinced that reading books is one of many keys to escape poverty and to prevent violence at all levels in society. Not the only one, but one that could help.

The picture above shows a scene that touched me a lot. It's taken at a school who is running many excellent projects, one of them is an open air mini library. Seeing these Salvadoran children voluntarily read books during their break is something I will honestly never forget. It may seem silly, but in that moment I came to a decision that I think will have a lot of consequences for me as a person and hopefully for at least some children somewhere in the world.

¡Qué chivo va' vos!

When adapting to a new culture, some things are easier to get used to than others. I talk to strangers in the streets with joy. I don’t mind kissing on the cheek. I’m totally okay with crappy buses and traffic jams. I use a lot of vulgar words back home in Sweden, too. So, what has been most difficult for me to adapt to since I arrived in El Salvador almost three weeks ago?

Perception of time. For a Swedish, Uppsala student like myself, “4 a clock” means 4.15. If you know you’ll arrive later than that, you call or send a message. Here, “4 a clock” means everything between 4.20 and 5.00. “Two minutes” means at least fifteen. And when you’re waiting for someone to make a decision, “Monday” may very well mean Wednesday or the week after. It’s frustrating, not least when you depend on someone else to get a ride or give you a permit.

Local expressions. The “Salvadoreño” is quite different from the “Madrileño” or other accents of the Spanish language. It took me about two weeks to begin to understand everyday talk over lunch between locals. I still have to concentrate quite hard, and I guess I will never get it all. But at least, I’ve gotten used to saying “vos” instead of “tú” (both means you, and it’s a bit hard because the verb is also changed with vos), I’ve learned that “mara” is not only a criminal gang but also means “people” and I use “chivo” (cool or great) frecuently myself. When someone calls you a “bitcha”, don’t feel insulted, because here it simply means “girl” (or in Swedish “tjej” more properly). "Perro" (dog) is substituted bye "chuchu", and when you’re drunk you’re usually "bolo" and not "borracho". Another difficult thing for me as a Swede is knowing exactly when to use "Usted" (formally You/Ni) and when it’s okay to switch to "vos" (you). The distance I feel when using "Usted" is also very strange to me.

Class society. In El Salvador, everybody is simply not equally treated. Of course, that goes for all societies in the world, but here it’s more visible than in Sweden. All families from lower middle class and upwards have servants. Either the servants come cleaning and cooking etc. regularly, or they live together with the family. It´s very hard for me to accept the fact that some people don’t have lives on their own but live to serve others, and that a vast majority of the grown up population never cracked an egg in their whole life. Also, respect for authority is extremely important in El Salvador. You don't get into an argument with your boss. You don't become friends with him or her, either. Powerful people are called "don" or "doña". For a Swede, this is a tricky part of social life. Whatever you do, remember that in El Salvador money and education means everything and everybody is NOT equal!

Religion. Catholicism is everywhere. In ads. On the walls inside buses. On cars (as on the one in the photo, quoting the Bible). In newspapers articles. In the language. Sometimes a bit annoying for me as an atheist, but most of the time I choose not to comment on it. If I do, I know I will get into a discussion. However, Salvadorans are in many ways quite liberal when it comes to religion, more liberal than many Americans (or “gringos” as you say here, since “American” is in fact everyone from the American continent). Furthermore, people have very different opinions regarding religion. Some go to church everyday, some don't. Some are in favor of abortion, some are not. Some want to marry, some don't.

Drink and drive. In this country, it’s simply not possible to avoid being in a car with a drunk driver. Refusing that would mean isolating yourself from your social life. Here, when I ask the driver to “please drive more carefully because you’ve been drinking”, he answers “don’t worry, there’s no police in this area at the moment”. And I feel so much safer…

Being socially limited. I’m used to being around a lot of friends, talking a lot and being able to express myself completely. Here, the language puts limits on me. My Spanish is good, but in a group of Salvadorans chatting away with each other, I obviously need to put a lot of effort in understanding all the details and being able to contribute to the discussion. Also, I’m more or less dependent on friends with cars to get around, since the bus system basically sucks. Another issue is that, because of lack of security, you cannot walk the streets or catch a bus at night, and some areas are best avoided all together. All this means a huge difference in lifestyle for me, and has been the biggest challenge so far.


In my opinion...

... Salvadoran "winter" is totally ok.
... no one should live more than an hour from the sea.
... Sweden have far too few ice cream shops.

Why not El Salvador?

Endless, white beaches. And endless, black beaches. And not one human being in sight except yourself. About 25 vulcanos, some of them active. Some of the best surf spots of the continent. Excellent roads. Sea turtle projects and loads of other local development projects. This country has a world of possibilities for different kinds of tourism, and still the tourists shine with their absence. How come?

A regular question when I told people I was going to El Salvador was "Why El Salvador?". Since I'm here not as a tourist but as a student doing a minor field study, my answers were usually accepted without further confusion. However, if you intend to visit this country as a backpacker or a regular tourist, you'll find it hard to convince your friends back home that El Salvador is THE place to visit. You will probably hear things like: "Aah, you're going to Salvador, Brazil? No??", and; "Aren't people getting killed there all day long??", or; "Isn't there a war going on there?", or; "What does El Salvador have that other countries don't?", or; "Why not go to Guatemala instead, I heard they have indigenous people and Spanish courses there", and most likely; "Bye the way, where the hell is El Salvador located??".

The most serious obstacles to international tourism in El Salvador seem to be its small size and its bad reputation. Basically, Europeans don't know that El Salvador exists, and if they know something about it, they know about THE VIOLENCE PROBLEM. And yes, El Salvador has problems with high criminality rates and scores about second place in the world regarding the number of murders per capita (about 40-50 per 100 000 inhabitants). However, there are some zones that are insecure and others that are not. The killing is mostly gang members killing each other. There are things you just don't do, like taking the bus at night, wearing jewlery for everyone to see or flashing your lap top. You avoid zones controlled by the maras (criminal gangs). And something you might not know is that Guatemala, too, has problems with maras. But that country has no problems at all attracting tourists. Guatemala has managed to put itself on the map and spread its reputation as an awesome place to visit. Guatemala has indigenous people and Maya temples, and they know to market these particularities. El Salvador, too, needs to understand its unique features and spread the word about itself in order to attract tourists.

A friend, who works at the Department of Environment and Natural Resources, said that before there can be any success in tourism in El Salvador, the Salvadorans themselves need to travel the country more and get to know the place. The internal tourism has yet to be developed. Considering its small size and the almost flawless roads connecting all parts of the country, it's quite strange that Salvadorans don't travel more. It's a cultural problem, my friend said. No tradition of exploring new sites, to leave the familiar for the unknown. I don't know if he's right. But I agree that the Salvadorans should appreciate the beauty of their country more, and take better care of the environment. Poverty is not the biggest obstacle, the middle class is big and the people relatively well educated. But in order to develop love and care for the nature, integrated education about the topic is needed. However, I think that increasing tourism could have good implications for this kind of counciousness in the people, and not only the other way around. It depends on what kind of tourism we're talking about, of course. I think that El Salvador could offer something unique to more alternative tourims, such as eco- and adventure tourism. Climb a vulcano by day, save a turtle by night. Visit Barra de Santiago to learn more about some of the country's excellent local development projects. Surf in Punta Roca, one out of many famous surf spots. Meet the faboluos Salvadoran people and anjoy their hospitality and creativity. Enjoy Salvadoran theatre. And if you're into history, visit the university and learn more about the cruel civil war that ended just 16 years ago. El Salvador offers something for everyone who is open minded enough to embrace it. For everyone who is curious enough to overcome the myth of the rule of violence. Get over it!!

Welcome to El Salvador!


In my opinion...

... cheap theatre is THE BEST.
... political polarization sucks.
... Swedish weddings should adopt some Latino elements.

How political are you?

Today I started to chat with a teacher at a rural school in Barra de Santiago. After about two minutes of conversation he asked me:

- So, how's the situation in Sweden at the moment?

- The situation concerning...?

- Well, the political situation?

Situations like this is what almost makes me consider moving to El Salvador for good. Imagine a regular Swede asking a foreigner the same question, after just knowing the person for a couple of minutes! Suddenly, the teacher and I got into a conversation about Swedish social security and the need for sex education in El Salvador. One reason for bringing up sex education is the fact that El Salvador is 20 times smaller than Sweden but has a population of almost the same size. While in Sweden the big proportion of elders will become a serious problem in the near future, in El Salvador the situation is reversed. The Salvadoran people is a young one.

Today, I just love it here. I guess leaving the city and going to the countryside is good for my well-being. I got back to the office a couple of hours ago, but tomorrow morning at 5 (!!) I'll be leaving for the beaches of La Unión, a department situated quite far from Santa Tecla (by car though, not in a bus like the one in the picture). And in the evening, a cool party awaits. Forget about feeling homesick, Valborg is nothing compared to chasing waves in El Salvador!

In my opinion...

... El Salvador has the coolest buses ever.

... there's nothing like a cold milkshake when you're sweating like a monster.

... I will definitely show the Salvadorans that Swedes sure know how to dance!

The curse of the daily routine

What is it that makes you start romantisizing your home country wildly about a week after setting foot in another country?

Yes, right now in this very moment I miss Sweden! I miss the spring that had not yet arrived when I left. I miss my friends, my family. I want to be home for Valborg! I know I have no right whatsoever to complain. Here I am, enjoying 35 degrees, an extraordinary landscape and amazing people. And I've only been here for a week! I guess this is what happens when the daily routine makes its presence. I'm not here on vacation, I'm here to do a case study for my thesis, remember?? I guess what's bothering me the most right now is that I'm waiting for the school I want to either accept or deny my request. I'm waiting for plan A to work out or for plan B to be put in its place. And I have not yet decided exactly what plan B would be. I'll just have to wait and hope. And accept that I cannot control everything. On Monday I'll know.

One thing is for sure, however. The agenda for the rest of the week is more than promising! Visits to Barra de Santiago, to la Unión, and three different parties are on the schedule. I already have a lot of friends here who are taking care of me, and somehow I start feeling like home. But of course, it's difficult to be so dependent on other people. I will never learn how the bus system works (does it even deserve to be called a "system"??). I rely on others to tell me which streets are safe and which are not. I need people with cars to take me wherever I need to go, and to bring me back home at night. It's a good experience, I know, but changing your life overnight is challenging.

But I'll tell you what I love with this country: I love that it's mango and avocado season, my two favourite fruits in the world! I love that the sun is always there (even though I haven't seen it so much since I'm mostly in the city right now). I love the sea and to watch the wild waves (will surf soon!). I love my friends here and the hospitality of the people. And that they know how to party like we party in Uppsala! Also, I know that I'll feel better as soon as I can start working on my study for real. Right now, I'm tired of just reading articles and formulating theories. Let me out on the field!!

That's all for now. Tomorrow, I'm off to the sea. It's time to get that tan, you know.


In my opinion...

...the grass is always greener on the other side.
...air pollution is f****ng annoying.
...Latin American theatre rocks!

Where's the bus?

Increasing food prices, bus strike, elections and the pope visiting the U.S. That's what's on the front pages of the newspapers in El Salvador at the moment. What's on the front page of my life?

I arrived here two days ago, but as they always say; it feels like so much longer. I guess the reason I already feel like home in this country is not only because it's my second visit, but mostly thanks to the genuine kindness of all people I've met so far. I guess you've heard that one before. Our own people are cold and boring, people far away are warm and welcoming. Sometimes it might not be true, but in the case of El Salvador it is definitely the case. I believe that being a stranger here is much easier than being a stranger in many other parts of the world. Right now, I don't care about non-existing bus schedules, dirty streets or the threat of armed robbery. What matters are the conversations I have, the knowledge I gain from each moment, the creativity and the political counsciousness of the people. The fields are unbelievably green. The waves are both tempting and intimidating. The vulcanos are asleep. I go for the principle "The more smiles you give, the more smiles you get". I try to listen carefully, I try to learn before I act. I'm a pupil in this country, I'm asking, observing and I want to understand. It's sometimes a tiring role. But it's a role everyone in the world should try, especially those of us who think we know it all.

So that's the news in my life. What about the newspaper news?

Rapidly increasing food prices is a serious problem in El Salvador, and probably the single issue concerning people the most. The currency used is the dollar, and when the US is going down, El Salvador goes down with it. In fact, not only food but all kinds of goods and services are more expensive by the day. Increasing fuel prices have resulted in more expensive bus tickets, a disaster for common people who are dependent on buses to get to their jobs. For a person earning minimum salary (about 160 dollars/month), about 26 percent is now spent on public transport! This situation has resulted in some bus companies (there are a lot of them in every city) all around the country simply taking their buses out of service, while others increase the ticket price even more. Some more chaos in an already chaotic public transport system...

Elections are held every fifth year in El Salvador. The next ones will not happen until early next year, and according to law, campaigning is not allowed as early as 9 months before elections. However, more or less discrete, the game has already begun. According to the newspapers, the ruling right-wing party ARENA is loosing support. Almost 38 percent says that they would vote for Mauricio Funes, presidential candidate for the left-wing party FMLN, if the elections were today. 27 percent says they would vote for the ARENA candidate Rodrigo Ávila. Part of the explanation might be that Mauricio Funes, who worked as a journalist for many years and quite recently got formally involved in politics, is a very popular person with a reputation of being transparent and honest. Also, ARENA elected their candidate very late, which might also be a disadvantage. Well, the least one can say is that a lot can and will happen until the actual elections next year.

And lastly: El Salvador is a catholic country, no doubt… The pope’s visit to America is a big thing in the newspapers, and one article proudly declares that a Salvadorian boy assisted in the welcoming ceremony. Remember that 2 millions out of 10 millions Salvadorians live in the U.S., so no wonder that big news there are big news here.


In my opinion…
…the two men who just recently raped a 1 year old baby should be sent to the Rapist Planet and there rape each other and other rapists the rest of their lives.
…there should be more organizations like Asociación Barra de Santiago.
…traditional Salvadorian breakfast is just lovely!

Taking off...

Leaving for El Salvador on the 15th of April! If you're interested in the trip and the minor field study I'm there to realize, check out this blog on a regular basis.

I am a blogger. Why? This blog serves three purposes. On the one hand, it's a way of updating family and friends on what I'm up to. On the other hand, the blog could be valuable to those interested in matters related to Latin America in general and Central America and El Salvador in particular. The third focus of this blog is leadership and personal development. Based on my very limited experience within these fields, I will share some ideas and inspiration and also refer to other far more experienced people than myself.

Because of privacy, security and research reasons, all personal names as well as some place names in this blog will be fictitious, and all delicate information left out.